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Post by ajamodels on Mar 19, 2009 7:46:26 GMT -6
These two were done by Jean-Marc DesChamps. He's a pro Sci-Fi modeller in France who's very well known for his 2001 models! His work has been published in Dixieme Planete, and Sc-fi & Fantasy Modeller. His best work however, is the Jules Verne museum in Paris. Jean-Marc built all of the novel visual concepts. Enjoy these!! -Adam  www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?p=105785#post105785 |
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Post by Model Man on Mar 26, 2009 22:33:13 GMT -6
That's some pretty sweet work! I gotta bring my Chi sat up now to that standard w/ the 'washboard' details on the fins. Thanks for posting these Adam.
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Apr 2, 2009 3:26:06 GMT -6
Hello all, Here are some pix of my Chinese and French Sat during building prorcess. For the French, I added more plates with plasticard and bits of details to give more interesting surfaces ; for the Chines, I replaced the resin solar panels with metal sheet scribed with a sharp tool, and the resin rod with a brass rod, because the resin tends to bend in time ("warp" as we say among the Star Trek fans !). I added too scribed panels inside the fins, as on the original sat. That's "all". Concernind the paint, I prefer to paint the whole thing with a white satin spray can, wait to dry and spray acrylic black paint and remove it with a coton rag impregnated with alcohol. That gives a weathering surface to play with. The white remains white but with grey zones, in a more subtil manner ("wheathering" action) than to put a wash of black around the details. It is less time consuming too ! Areas that must be painted are with brushes or spray gun and masks. If they are decals (and on that kind of subject with only little marks happyly !), I apply a thin coat of clear varnish on the area only where is the decal and "secure " it with mat varnish. I hate to pass varnish on the whole thing because it ruins the paint effects in having a too uniform rendering. If you look closely at thing you will see there are "panels" that reflect light differently. A whole varnish breaks that and the objects look wrong and fake. I thought I have other pictures of the building process fot these 2 platforms but no ! Sorry, I will came back ! Have a nice day, JM The Chine sat.   The French sat.   |
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Jul 27, 2009 7:46:59 GMT -6
Hello all, there is no so much activities here and I think you are all in summer hollydays. I will be soon too but I had time to build and take pictures of the Titov resin model kit by David Guertin of Blap ! Models, masterised by Ian Walsh. I didnt' wanted a off white desk model, so I did a paint work as on SFX models, and to match (or so) the Orion I did years ago. Have good sunny says all, J. Marc  By oldpeabody at 2009-07-27  By oldpeabody at 2009-07-27 |
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Post by saturnapollo on Jul 28, 2009 15:44:15 GMT -6
Jean-Matrc
That is amaziing! The paintwork really sells it. Just wish I could (or have the patience) to paint like that!
Keith
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Post by Model Man on Jul 29, 2009 19:26:25 GMT -6
Beautiful work! I gotta get me one of these, along with most all other Stargazer's models.
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Oct 8, 2009 3:56:51 GMT -6
Hello all, I am looking for the Space Station from Adam. So I decided to put my model on a rotating device. I apologize for the bad quality of the video, but with some imagination… www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxCd7LwVeKc |
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Post by Model Man on Oct 8, 2009 8:34:20 GMT -6
WOOOWWWW! I subscribed and rated! Would like to know more about the motor setup.
Also, there is a youtube icon in the post controls that will inline the video here.
Most excellent!
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tagdot
Assistant Tech
Posts: 35
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Post by tagdot on Oct 8, 2009 8:42:56 GMT -6
A truly superb job! It's quality work like yours and the way in which are displayed that causes the creative spark to be ignited in the rest of us.
"Satisfactory. Most satisfactory." - Professor Horatio Beaker
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Oct 9, 2009 1:09:04 GMT -6
Thank you for your message.
To tell all, I was so excited to show the result I didn't take time to do a better video ! I will re-do that. Concerning the system, I used a little high torque motor I pulled away from a rotative base used to present jewels (or other things). The motor cames with a little rack that reduces the speed. I've found a other kind of motor that cames from a false plastic tools (the ones used to decorate DIY shops ; kind of big vacform false tools that rotates). The motor doesn't need rack because it is self contained.
I've putted the motor on a wood construction, at the good angle, and added long metal tubes : large to surround the little rack wheel of the motor (with a crank to grab the wheel), and little diameter tubes to support the model (a kind of cane rod fishing) to reduce the looking of the final support rod. To support extra weight I added a angle rod at the front.
I hope my explanations are clear because of my poor English. Hope too that helps you for the future.
Best regards,
Jean-Marc DESCHAMPS
nemotechnik@free.fr
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Jul 19, 2010 8:53:47 GMT -6
Hello all, Here are photographies of my last work. This is the German Sat. From Adam "Aja Models" Johnson. From a general point of view, the model is good, only, the rotocast has ruined a lot of details and replace them is not the fun task. The most difficult part of the model is to assemble the corrugated panels at the stern… I re-made pipes and the small slotted rectangulars details (those inside the grooves on the left and on the right of the body). Added some pipe details underside the main tower and others little plastic details here and there. The little antenna dish goes at the front of the little mat, not on the surfaces of the front tower as showed in the notice sheet. What we see on the original photo of the satellite is a (false) perspective. All the best to all, Jean-Marc DESCHAMPS  By oldpeabody at 2010-07-19  By oldpeabody at 2010-07-19  By oldpeabody at 2010-07-19  By oldpeabody at 2010-07-19  By oldpeabody at 2010-07-19 |
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Post by saturnapollo on Jul 19, 2010 16:38:46 GMT -6
Jean-Marc That's a superb build up. Well done indeed. I will have to use these photos as reference when I come to do mine. Keith |
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Post by Model Man on Jul 19, 2010 22:07:02 GMT -6
Love the tonality you got going in this one especially! |
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Jul 20, 2010 1:24:39 GMT -6
Thank you very much for your comments, guys !
Off white models, or so, are very difficult to play with. For this case, I used acrylic paints. I started with a grey primer to prepare the surfaces and see how were the assembled parts (especialy on the stern). Next, I pre-shaded the whole model with a dark grey paint where are the grooves (the sides and the "stairs" like details). I then painted the model with a very light grey and finished it with a off white. All the paints are mat/satin finish.
This German Sat. looks almost white on the photos, but it isn't. Color varies depending light. To give it more reliefs, I drybrushed white paint on few areas, like the motor housing. But in a very, very subtle manner. Be carefull to don't overdoing this exercice otherwise the model will look like a… model. The engine bells are painted bright silver and weathered with mat black (the "nozzles" at the center are black).
Where the decals go I passed a thin layer of clear varnish, applied the decoration, and secured with a mat varnish. The model stands on two brass rods, above a wooden base, the same I use for the others 2001 models. That gives an "unity" to my collection I am proud of !
Adam did a pretty nice job but the rotocast was not completely controled. But after some work, the result is here.
Yours,
J-Marc
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tma1
Cadet Trainee
Posts: 11
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Post by tma1 on Jul 20, 2010 2:42:54 GMT -6
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Post by saturnapollo on Jul 20, 2010 15:24:17 GMT -6
Thanks for the description of the build. I've never tried pre-shading before, but this sounds like this is the model to try it on. The results look superb.
Keith
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Post by lunadude on Aug 10, 2010 12:33:34 GMT -6
Nice finish. The display stand works well, too.
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